Tuesday, October 23, 2007

sorry for the lack of updates!.....round 1 individual and team events





My old buddy patchy did me well in the team event

Well, sorry for the lack of updates, ive either been too busy to post or ive been unable to get an internet connection. We've finished 1 round of the individual event and 1 and a half rounds of the team event.
The surf has been of varying quality. The “A” site has been steep and powerful, while the “B” site has been weak and slow. Unfortunately ive had most of my heats at the B site, which is not conduscive to my style. I finished 3rd in my long boat individual heat, which really crushed me. I was just too relaxed during my heat, I had no sense of urgency. I was beaten by only 1 point. I was really bummed because long boat is my specialty and i wanted to do well. But thats how it goes.
My individual Short boat heat was a different story. I was more focused and I got some good turns and some small lip moves on the weak waves. It was good enough and i advanced to the second round, which will happen later in the week. I was glad for that.

Yesterday was the first round of the team event. In my short boat heat I did horrible, again on the weak B site, I just felt off. I got 4th and it crushed my confidence again. I needed something to pump me up.
I got that in my long boat heat.....at the pumping A site. I noticed all the scared faces on the beach before my heat....all folks who'd never surf a bruising beach break like this on their own free will. Since our surf back home is often pumping shore break, I was stoked to go out and throw my long boat around. I was admittedly a little nervous, as the waves rolling in were pretty large, but it was a good sort of nervousness. Also in my heat were several other good surfers, and I could tell they were a little nervous as well. When the heat started, a huge set rolled in. I dropped in on the most critical part of the largest wave, dropping into a big bottom turn, a few pumps, and then headed for the huge lip for an attempt at a big move. I knew I had to commit and I knew there was little chance of ladning a move off this big of a wave, but I went for it anyway. After what seemed forever I hit the lip, flicked my boat over and did a big barrel roll right in the close. I landed flat in a huge boil of water and somehow made it out upright. I was stoked. I had several other good waves with finishing moves and just had a blast during my heat. James Hawker, a surf kayaker that I highly respect, was slashing the smaller waves up nicely, and I expected him to win the heat. When I came in from the water people were waiting for me on the beach to tell me how big my wave was, I was grinning from ear to ear. Not only did I WIN the heat, I was in first by 8 points! I was so stoked, I really needed this confience boost, and it was great to be able to surf some waves in the style I enjoy the most. Even still today people from several countries have come up to me to tell me they heard people talking about my big wave, which i sreally flattering.
Our long boat mens team did well, with three firsts and one second for the day.

Our US East team is in 4th place currently, tied with Jersey.

Ive been working my butt off helping organize the event. Its a lot of work but the good thing is I get to spend time with a lot of my friends from other countries.

Today we surfed at Mundaka, which was really weak looking, but my heat was postponed because the waves died out so i go tommorrow.

When we got back here to Bakio I coerced nathan into going out in the medium sized shore break here at the beach. We went out with a few other Welsh folks and were having a good time just wiping out and getting crushed.....and soon lots of other people came out and joined us. It ewas a lot of fun.

I'm having a good time here, hope everyone is well.

Joey


3 comments:

grizzles said...

Congrats on your performance! I heard that your wave was the biggest break ever recorded in Europe, much less the biggest one successfully surfed... the kids on xbox live were talking about it.

CrunchLaney said...

I heard tell on xbox live that 3 people died on that same wave...way to shred. Is that proper 'yakinology?

jHo said...

yea that'll do for the yakinology. thanks for the props. only 2 people died on that wave, the internets has a way of exaggerating things